If it weren't for the pork-pies, round sunglasses, and, um, Berlin wall I might not have have been able to peg these rad Stussy pics as '89.


Teriyaki Boyz should prove to be one of the more interesting, not necessarily in a good way, releases of 2005. Are the states ready for Rip Slyme's feel good vibes? Are the states even ready for a Japanese language release? This is not to mention Nigo's production skills, which I would categorize as entirely annoying. While last year's Rip Slyme releases have spent considerable time on my iPod, the few Nigo releases I've been able to get my hands on have all been fast-tracked straight to my recycle bin. I suppose Def Jam is banking on Bape's new status as the sartorial wet dream of high schoolers from coast to coast to propel their sales, while collaborations with the Neptunes, DJ Shadow and Daft Punk among others give them crossover and music nerd appeal. I'm interested in seeing how this project does, but if you're truly into Japanese rap (and not gimmicks) the new Rip Slyme album in stores now is the one to watch for.


The new Huf Tenderloin hat is a bit amazing, isn't it?

• What's wrong with this picture?
  
  
• Digital Gravel has the full Motug line.

Like much else ( music genres, political theories, smegma) , everyone has their own personal definition of streetwear. Some choose to eschew the term all together, others haven't the back story to define it as anything other than t shirts and sneakers, and about a hundred guys with moustaches would have you believe it's anything that's not couture. It all depends on where you've been, what you've read, and how you found out. I for one am 1) comfortable with the term, and 2) tend to have a broad approach to the arena. While some say streetwear is becoming diluted due to the influx of messageboard spawned, aforementioned perspective lacking new jacks, after scoping the new collection by Dave Denis, I'd be willing to say that everything's going to be alright. Denis has put together a collection of essentially elementary streetwear items that nonetheless manage to exist somewhere on the fault line of au fait and avant- garde, thanks not only to an enthusiastic disregard for anything but what he and his friends are interested in wearing, but also most likely to a few bong fueled nights out on the town. Denis manages to stay sneakercentric and thrift store versed enough to avoid any deep end digressions into psuedo As Four flights of wierdo fantasy, but thought-out and inside joke enough to attract attention from jaded streetwear people from Baltimore to Tokyo. Dave Denis won't likely fall under everyone's defintion of streetwear, and that's probably just fine for those for whom it does.

• Word on the street (well, more like bandwidth, at this point) is that Alife will be opening their first international branch in Vancouver BC this weekend at 350 Water street. Between the LES and Vancouver, is it just me or does Alife have a thing for junkies? Stay tuned for both Reebok and Adidas collabos from the Alife crew.

• It's been a minute since I've ran a feature. Don't sweat it though, boy boy- we've been getting political with some of the finest in east coast streetwear...
  
  
• Why am I always the last to know? Last time this happened I was finding out about newly crowned Best Solo Music Artist Dan Deacon from Italy's Pig Mag, and now I'm finding out about Lesley Reppeteaux and Logan Hicks' opening at Baltimore's Shinola Gallery from Kiwi streetwear fiend Slam.
  
  
• Peep Ending East for a motley MP3s crew, but make sure you click-clack on the Spankrock jammy in particular.
  
  
• Lemon-Red went to a killer party, but more interactively he posted a much "awesomed" Big L (of Supreme t shirt fame [right...]) & Jay Z (of still being alive fame) freestyle.
  
  

In case you hadn't picked up on it, ASF is written, researched and edited in Baltimore. Although it's sometimes a source of both frustration(driving everywhere) and fun(driving drunk), many say Baltimore is stepping it's game up significantly on most fields, namely the music one. Long pinned by those in the know as the next big thingie, Baltimore Club has come closer and closer to breaking in 2005. Lamentably, Baltimore's City Paper chose to celebrate the occasion by being "a bit racialist" about the whole thing. I know, a spade is a spade, but sheesh... at least "Vice out" your race talk by going all the way over the top so as to indicate your self awareness. City Paper or not though, you can't stop progress- so what's next, youngblood? Bmore Gutter Music. Milkcrate Athletic's first record with worldwide distribution, Gutter Music features an all star cast of the finest in east coast get down music; Spankrock, Low Beej, LaCrate himself, XXXchange, and the first lady of acid wash rap, Amanda Blank. It's like an army, or, like maybe a navy, innit? If Money Studies' Voila mixtape was an indicator of the direction things are headed, then Gutter Music stands to really really make City Paper get their knickers in a twist. Watch TTLab for the release.

• Drooghi just got updateified in the form of the Silas autumnal collection. Jump straight to the jackets, because that's always the best bit.

• Hey guys, if you're so into Number (N)ine, then why don't you go ahead and buy some- it's on sale. Neighborhood too.

• They shootin'. Made you look.

Oh yeah, the other thing about Baltimore- people here dress like bums. In a most likely scenario though, it's probably because they are bums (I don't really hang out at the chi chi-est of places, let's just say). I know I said "Bmore- stepping it's game up," but not so much in this department, just yet. So what's an "arts & culture writer" to do? Sit and wait. While I respect the art fag chic of many MICA students and most shorties in town have some direction, there's still the partridge family homagers, "level one" thrift store shoppers and that ever present misinformed and gag worthy emo/punk contingent. Sitting. Waiting. Then you find something like Catwalk City, where you can look at rad London people who really give it a go, and you get over it. Although the name is a bit try-hard, it's easy to see what they're getting at, so cut some slack.

Swagger is back at it in '05, having recently rolled out their Swagger Kingdom fall line. While one shouldn't expect much other than flipped hip-hop entrenched streetwear staples from the Shakkazombie born fashion label, much like today's hip hop, Swagger's ability to make hits is sometimes more about attitude and image than necessarily the final product. That's not a detraction though- the brand has a long track record of excellently executed collaborations and image builders in supplement of their credentialed line. Even when it comes to the sometimes undecorated gear (sometimes it takes a bit of clout to be able to keep it simple), only a brief turn into the realm of jean shorts could mar an otherwise mean collection- but even then, in the context of their inspirations, jeans shorts fortunately make sense. Swagger isn't a line for the picky streetwear fanboys out there, it's a line for money making Jap rap artists and fans in the market for a little "bring bring;" you'd be hard pressed to bring that particular swagger to Swagger. I know it sounds isolationist, but hasn't it always been that way with these cats?

• I remember scoping Algierz randomly back a year or so, immediately writing the whole thing off as a bunch of cartoon cornball business (probably because it is). I mean, obviously Algierz runs nowhere close to paralel with they type of stuff I'm into, but for some reason this design caught my eye (once you take a look at the design, it becomes obvious- it's not much different in concept and execution from a past equally high brow design from the man like Perks, plus I'm alwas game for overt ganja references). I clicked around the net for a bit, and it turns out that the brand is being rocked fairly hard by some of the south's finest; Paul Wall, Bun B and, umm, Yukmouth. Is Algierz the ghetto Matt Groening?

What's the story with the Mobb inspired Supreme sweatshirt featured on page three of Factory's online updates? Shown next to the already released FW 05 stadium track tops, are we to assume this Hennessey joint is a JP only release, or did it all get snatched up (or passed over)? '95 mentality still strikes a chord 10 years down the line... It's funny, I went back to shoot some photos of the video a couple months ago, and imediately thought to myself- some one should flip the old school Henney joint... With streetwear where it is these days, seems like that kind of thing is increasingly happening to designers and fans alike...

• Kaikoo son, what!

Yo, sons! Originally I was going to post a "YO!!! SUP WIT DAT!!" today, but I'll save it for later in the week, cuz if I do it right now it'll be all Kathleen Higgins MP3s, and that's filed under non-gangster... Anyway, I'd like to take a minute and update everyone on what's going on in ASF world...

• Yo, if I emailed you about sending you a t shirt, don't lose hope, but realize that it might be a little bit longer than even I expected- that shit's not cheap. Whenever they do happen though, they will be super dope and not for the general public.

• I picked up a copy of VMAN magazine this weekend, because 1) I thought it was about a Japanese super hero, and 2) because it was shrink-wrapped, which I suppose triggered a sub-conscious association with the usual shrink-wrapped magazine I buy. Turns out it's shrink wrapped cuz it's kind of gay, but not fully gay- no weenerz.

• See how chilled out and happy this guy is? Notice that he's not even wearing a cool $60 t shirt? Do the math- go out on a limb once in a while and you'll thank yourself for the pussy you just captured.
  

• Is the camera phone the new Polaroid? Here's the case: it's charmingly crappy, cheap and discreet (muff shots, guys, muff shots), plus you don't feel like a total nerd carrying it around because you're carrying it anyway. I say yay; check out the photos up top from M.I.A. in DC and Rod Lee in Bmore. See, they suck. It's awesome.
  

While I never really got into the short sleeve sweatshirt thing, Atmos has released a string of decently designed and executed tops, the cream of the crop being the above. Coupling a chunky Frank Kozik styled big boy font with a stoney hippie chick possibly on a mystic journey, this is probably the coolest thing I've seen all week, and if there's something to "get" here, I don't wanna get it.


On the subject of mystic journeys, I've been listening to this Innaway record over and over again- it's quite nice. I'm sure these guys have some sort of really, really predictable bio that will do nothing but detract from the headiness of the record (unless one of them is stuck in an acid trip *fingers crossed*). Honestly, I'm quite content to pretend like they came straight from inside the cover of a Hipgnosis album cover. Oh cool, look- they give you a special trip enhancing tool!

• Sometimes it's hard for dudes to accesorize, you know? Too much jewelry, too many chains, all sorts of shit on your wrists... I mean if you're, like, "the dude with the fauxhawk and glitter hoodie" you'll probably have no qualms about that stuff, but, I don't know, I like to look either "not gay", or at the very least "probably not gay." That's where this classic comes into play in every dudes wardrobe. Mine's pink.
  

• I try to stay up on skating, but it's hard. As much as I like to see fuckers rip shit, scoping it from the confines of a desk space just doesn't seem very rad (the couch is so much better, duh). Just scoped the trailer for the new kick twat (what?) video by Heroin Skateboards, Live From Antarctica, and I swear I've never seen half those tricks before in my life, plus props for using the appropriately lyricked Sigue Sigue Sputnik track "Love Missile F1-11" and being British. (via el Fadero)

• Nike White Label: "just ok," as usual.

• Well Bred has something for your head.

• Blogging is cool and everything, but it was good to get the opportunity to write an actual article, instead of blurbs that I spend way too much time re-wording, i.e.- my informative/borderline retarded piece for Inquiring Mind (it's not really that retarded, I swear it's actually kind of fun to read).

Rogan


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It's not really a secret, but the lumberjack is back (see the aforementioned Fat). With the Hat to match? Maybe. I'm a bit surprised we haven't seen any from Supreme or Stussy yet this year, so I suppose for now we'll be looking to mostly Japanese brands and a few up market labels like Rogan for the goods... unless you want to head down to Wal Mart...



2k has been picking up new artists pretty regularly these days, notably getting Richard Prince to sign on for a few designs. You can cop the jernt from 2k, or you can go to Krudmart and get it for, like, $4 cheaper. I like to shop around.


These are up over at Staple. Dude, what happened to Nike SB? These possibly aside, every Dunk for the past year or so has been increasingly obnoxious and gimmicky. Officially kid's stuff?


Not one to shy away from the straight to DVD urban comedy aisle at Blockbuster, I enthusiastically await the release of the Three Six Mafia produced, movie theatre eschewing, yerple starring, Shawty from "Tip Drill" video featuring- Clean Up Men The Movie. You've got a month or so to get your codeine refilled...

Fat, a brand I heretofore thought of as doing strictly New Era accented "yo, son" styled streetwear basics mixed with some standard fare "parody" t shirt designs, has created a surprisingly nostalgic F/W 05 line drawing big time influence from 70s & 80s workwear and the moustache-masculine GQ ads of the era. LL Bean and original Abercrombie style ruggedwear gets flipped by the Japanese design crew into workable and current pieces with a mad bit of vintage flair. The actual line is supported by a grip of M.R. Ducks/LL Bean/60s Natural Americana prints on classic white; by themselves they seemed a bit odd, but after taking a look at the meat of the line, they make a lot more sense. Obviously, I'm playing in big time to presentation, but I really suppose it struck a chord. An impressive collection from a brand that's continually been one to watch.

• With a penchant for greasy enough hotties and passed out hipsters, Pig Mag introduces their Pig Gallery.

• KCDC is peddling some of their wicked designs on their web site... don't sleep on the gyro poster lady number.

Looks like Raekwon and I have just about as much in common as I thought we did. What do you think- Supreme Deltas? Via Arkitip, Photos by Shadi NYC.

• Busy Ten has a few pairs of Union 180s left. If you're into getting laughed at, I say go check it out...

• Mekanism has dropped a new batch of t shirts, available at Je Reve Que Je Dors, which means"I Dream That I Dropped Acid With Joe Le Taxi".

Inquiring Mind has stepped their features game up significantly in the past couple weeks, First Oxy, now me and Mighty Healthy. The dudes asked me to pretty much write whatever I wanted, so I figured I throw it in a slightly different gear and shoot my mouth off about some records I put on around the crib. Only got a couple of the albums onto MP3, so check out samples of two of the best... well, wait actually the Paul Horn record is the best one, but that's something you gotta have on a plate...

The Feature.

T Rex "Planet Queen"
T Rex "Hot Love"

Bernard Wright "Just Chillin' Out"
Bernard Wright "Haboglabotribin'"

One time someone said to me, "you have a fucking blog about fashion, get a life." I suppose that's true, although I never really thought of it that way (I don't totally consider t shirts and streetwear to necessarily be "fashion" fashion, you know?). This week was Fashion Week though, and the most interesting bit was Jeremy Scott's Egyptian eighties dollar bill spring 06 collection. Bridging the gap between runway and cheeky street, Scott's collection is easy to digest and pretty fucking rad, mixing redesigned excessive Adidas with throwback 80's novelty style patterns. Most would call the line 80s inspired, but a least it's a different late decade 80s than most of the throwbackery we've seen from other designers. Plus the dude made a mummy sweatsuit, and you can't front on that. Smart folks out there though might note that Perks & Mini were doing Egyptian as well a season or two ago...

• I other high top news, Crooked Tongues has super detailed pics of the Escape Air Force III. I thought the Air Force IIs were the ultimate in 80s sneaker design excess, but this motherfucker really takes the cake; 12 eyelets? Shut the fuck up. I'm perpetually on the fence about tucking your jeans behind your tongues, but with these essentially being combat boots, the tuck seems like a requisite.

• Finally got a minute to peruse the AKA NYC previews, both on their site and on BGHD. It's 2005 and everyone's down with graffiti, thankfully the cats at 12 oz know how to pick 'em.

• NYC people, check out the A.R.E. Weapons release party tonight.

The other night we were carrying on after the club, and the girls started going on about what a kick ass sex song "Stranglehold" is. I was speechless; didn't they know how famously misogynistic a song it is? Yeah, they did. Guess who I'm hanging out with this weekend. And yet, as mind blowing as that experience was (I thought all my female friends were uptight bitches), finding the Wings & Horns shirt illustrating the inside of my brain was a much more severe mind melt.

• Now that Fucking Awesome is fully online hopefully they'll continue with the fucking awesomeness of their first mixtape. Check for Gun Called Tension (Rockers, what), Digital Leather and The Screamers. Fuck.

• scarlet Johansson is down with Jesus. So is Jimmy Fallon, so I guess it's not really anything to crow about at this point.

• Government is apparently also down with the Jesus. While every item in their somewhat predictable screenprint heavy streetwear collection didn't do it for me, the few straightforward Christ print items I dug, along with the weirdo pattern cargo pants, kinda.
• 
  

Are you serious? Kinda awesome, and I did LOL 4 realz, son.

• In case you missed the last 15 years of Jungle music, DJ Zinc mashed up the place for you.

• In other mashing news, Diplo is running things on a new mix CD for my favorite tragically rad UK club Fabric.
• 
  

Ubiq Philly gets nice on the Reebok Pump.

• Rachel De Joode hooks it up for all one of the fashion/Star Wars dorks out there. It'd be far more fucking rad if the mother fuckers even looked like they were on.

• God, this guy must get so much pussy.

• Sick money.

So we're deep in the throes of (god, I'm such a pitiful writer) Fashion Week, and there's only one brand that matters... ok, maybe two brands that matter. Within the past week or so (I'm not sure when I got the email) Rockers NYC flashed their new catalogue of goods on keen eyes. Goes to show how integral wicked music is to good design.

Black Uhuru "Puff She Puff"
Bob Marley "Downpresser"
Prince Douglas "March Down Babylon Dub"

In high school we used to know this guy who would quiz kids on the band who's t shirt they were wearing: how many albums do they have, what's your favorite song, etc, in an effort to eliminate poseurs from the lunch room. Fucking Awesome online has been reloaded, and while there's no doubt in my mind that everyone gets the para-ubiquitous "Booze and Shoes" tee, I doubt they "get it" on the same level as Dill. The thing about "getting it" though; who gives a shit. I mean, can I live? "Sniff Smoke Swallow" for the hard core contingent and beer for the masses, kind of like America. Gay meets redneck, kind of like America. Diamond Dave, kind of like the man.

• Diane Rehm had Michael Kimmelman from the Times on her show today, his new book "The Accidental Masterpiece" sounds like it's rad/enlightening. Many parallels can be drawn between the fashion world and the art world, so if you're interested in applying those critical thinking skills maybe get you're read on, but if you want to look at sneaker porn all day, that's fine too, really.

• In other "books that I'm reading" news, just got my copies of "The Soul Stylists",a brief history of Brit style meeting black music from WWII on, and "All Crews", a look back at drum & bass so far which has really rad pictures of not only Roni Size in a Powell shirt, but also super hot white girl DJ Rap in her heyday, kicking it with Shy FX, Goldie and GQ among others.

• The price is right, plus they're moderately rad, right? Well, whatever, combat boots are the new sneaker anyway, so who gives two... just make sure they're beat the fuck up and you'll be all right.

• I'm sorry but this Dirk Leyers EP is blowing my mind sofa king hard. It's like Osunlade meets a cute 21 year old German woman's womb and I'm the baby, and it's a planned pregnancy because my parents are in love forevs. Da-da.

• Sickly overhead shots of Manhattan. If you look real close you can see this guy.

• Oh yeah, I almost forgot... part II of my conversation with dudes is up @ Dopefiend. I wouldn't say I was wasted by the end, but I definitely put away a few drinks... if you read it, it's immediately obvious how very seriously we were taking it, however I managed to say probably, like, three smart things.
  

Dear NYC,

Can I have my money back? You are really expensive and full of coke, plus you stepped on my Jordans.

Thanks,
Nat

PS- Oh yeah, also Drum N Bass is really good the past couple months and Andy C is playing Sonar tomorrow night, so I'm not missing you at all you.

Shy FX featuring Jenna G "Feelings For You"
Total Science "Going In Circles (AI remix)"
Drumsound and Bassline Smith "Subliminal"


New Supreme drops this weekend, fyi, more fun tomorrow.

Jack Kirby Museum. 'Nuff Said. See you next Tuesday, I'll be leanin' in NYC over the weekend.

• Holey moley, when I said I was dropping Clarendon like it was hot, I didn't think anyone would pick 'em up, apparently that's not the case... Dude says they're not a fad though... word son, think that...

• In case you forgot, KAWS writes graffiti. (via Streetsy)
  

• Grime heads down south, but one can't help but wonder how all the sunshine and ass cheeks will change the sound... plus it looks like these cats are doing all right- as in never mercked anyone for weed or Akademiks.

• Although every Serpieri piece is virtually the same (brunette spreading ass cheeks, or alternately brunette getting ass cheeks spread), he's still a master of the pin up game, penchant for snakes or not. (Fleshbot)

• Ojas, Surface 2 Air and Yoko Devereaux on sale @ Active Endeavors.

• Looks like Baden Baden has something up their sleeve...

• It's always dope when The Rickster comes back on the scene (not that he exactly goes anywhere, but it's been a minute), and this time around Powell's releasing a book with the constantly banging Powerhouse. Parisian readers, check the new Colette Newsletter (you should get that in the mail, it's kinda fly) for info on the in store exhibit. You cannot fuck with Ricky Powell, basically.